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| PLANTING TREES | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Trees are a beautiful and desirable
part of almost any landscape. They provide comfortable shade, protect against
soil erosion, and can even contribute to the energy efficiency of a home.
Additionally, trees are beautiful and can make any landscape attractive.
Any home with a nice, attractive, well-maintained tree on its property enjoys increased property value. But in order to enjoy a tree, it must first be properly planted. There are three main ways that plantings can be bought; subsequently, there are different ways to plant them. You may plant a bare root tree, a container tree, or a ball and burlap tree. Each of these types of seedling set-ups requires a different technique in planting. However, it is very possible to do this planting yourself, saving money and keeping within a reasonable budget. The best time of year to plant new trees is in the latter part of winter, so that the root system has a chance to develop before the tree actively begins growing as the days begin to get longer and warmer. Planting a bare root tree. This is a tree moved from one location to another (dug up and transplanted). The first thing you should do is make sure you have the proper tools: a garden fork, a shovel, two wooden stakes, tree ties, and mulch. Use a shovel to mark out the area of the planned hole. This hole should be at least twice the diameter of the tree's root system. Once you have the area marked out, with a shallow hole already dug within the markings, use the garden fork to scarify the edges of the hole. This action loosens the soil and will make it easier for the roots to properly expand. In the center of your hole, build a small mound. Then place the two stakes into the ground on opposite sides of the mound. The stakes act as stabilizers and supports to the tree as it works to establish itself. You should try to make sure that you plant the tree at the same depth at which it was planted before. Spread the roots over the mound. Next, add enough soil to support the tree (but not fill up the hole) and then spray the area with water. Backfill the hole with a little more soil, add water again. Then repeat two or three more times, completely filling in the hole. Tamp the soil down to get rid of air pockets surrounding the tree's roots. If your climate is dry, or if water drains away quickly, a moat should be dug around the tree to retain water. Fasten the tree ties to the stakes and the tree, not too tightly, to ensure that the tree receives adequate support for its first year in the new area. Two to four inches of mulch should be applied around the planting area, but be sure that the mulch does not touch the tree trunk. The tree should be watered well and the soil kept moist for the next year. Planting a container tree This type of tree is often found at nurseries, coming in a pot or other plastic container. Like with a bare root tree, it is necessary to have a shovel, garden fork, stakes, tree ties, and mulch. Then, using the container as a guide, mark out the planting using the shovel. The hole will need to be right around three times the width of the container. The hole should be about one and a half times as deep as the height of the pot. After the hole has been properly dug, use the garden fork to scarify the hole's sides. Pound the two stakes (preferably cedar) into the ground angled outward. There should be enough room between the stakes for the root ball to fit. Water the tree in its container, and then gently lay it on its side. Remove the pot and gently tease the roots out with your hands. A small cultivator would also work. Backfill some of the soil into the hole. Place the tree in the center of the hole. Make sure that the edge of the hole is level with the height of the container. It may be necessary to add soil until this level is achieved. After the tree is at the correct height, fill in the hole with soil, tamping it down as you go. Dig a moat if needed. Use your tree ties and apply mulch in much the same manner as the bare root tree. The tree will need to be kept moist for a year while it establishes itself. Planting a ball and burlap tree (B&B Plants) (root ball surrounded by burlap sack) These are plants that have had their roots packed in soil, and wrapped in burlap. These types trees are generally grown in a field at the nursery, and are considered to be better than those grown in pots. They will grow faster, require less water, and need less feeding. You will want to be very careful handling these types of trees so that they don't get damaged. The best way to move them is by holding the rootball in your arms, and against your body, or, once you have them home, use a wheel barrow. Be sure to select the area that will be the tree's new home, before you actually go to make your purchase, and know what type of tree you will be getting in advance so that you can take into account how tall and wide it will grow, as well as how it will meet your needs as it matures. This planting technique requires only a shovel, garden fork, mulch and scissors (or a knife). Dig a hole, much like with the container tree, of two times the root ball's width. The hole should only be sligtly deeper than the ball, however. Scarify the hole's sides. Mix some good planting mix in with your native soil to help the roots to begin to develop, and add a handful or two of bone meal to the mix as well. Put some of your mix in the bottom of the hole, and make a little bowl that is abvout the same size as the bottom of the root ball so that you don't have any air pockets when you place the tree. Do NOT remove the burlap, or the twine that holds the burlap together... it will decay on it's own, and the roots, if they haven't already, will simply grow through it. Removing the burlap will only serve to cause damage to the roots. You can remove any plastic twine, as well as twine that is around the trunk. You may want to stake the tree in place to make sure that it gets ff to a nice straight start, especially if you live in a windy area. Place the stakes in the hole, but avoid causing damage to the root ball, and then just fill up the hole with your mixed soil. Create a watering ring around the tree, and water it thoroughly, and after about an hour, do it again. If you add some root stimulator during the second watering, it will penetrate the soil much better because the soil around the root ball will already me moist. This will aslo help to prevent any possibilities of transplant shock. Repeat this proceedure in about a week, while continuing to water every three days or so. If you are planting in winter, when the tree is dormant anyway, you may not need to water as much, or at all... especially if there has been plenty of fain or snow. Although, in drier climates, you will still need to pay attention to the moisruer levels. |
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