Growing Muskmelons in the Home Garden
HYG-1615-93 Ted W. Gastier
History and
Taxonomy
Muskmelons originated in the hot valleys of southwest
Asia. There are numerous botanical varieties of muskmelons including: netted
melons, cantaloupe melons, winter (casaba) melons, snake or serpent melons, and
mango or lemon melons.
Technically, cantaloupes are only those
muskmelons with a rough, warty surface and a hard rind; however, the name
cantaloupe has been applied to the netted varieties of muskmelons. Whether you
call them muskmelons or cantaloupes, we can agree that a vine-ripened melon
from your garden adds high dessert quality and fine flavor to your family's
diet. In addition, muskmelons are an excellent source of vitamins A and C.
Climate
Muskmelons are a warm season crop,
adapted to mean monthly temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees F, and needing ample
soil moisture and plant nutrients for growth. During the ripening period the
best quality melons are produced when hot, dry conditions prevail.
Under humid summer conditions, choosing a site with adequate soil
drainage as well as good air drainage can help to ensure the desired quality.
It is important to allow the leaf surfaces to dry to control foliar diseases.
Fertilizers
Keep in mind that excessive nitrogen
fertilizer can delay maturity and affect fruit quality, especially in seasons
with heavy rainfall. Lime should be applied only if indicated by soil test
results so as to maintain a pH of 6.4 to 6.7.
Culture
The use of black plastic mulch will conserve moisture, control weeds in
the row, and assist in an earlier harvest. Hills of two plants or seeds should
be spaced three feet apart on the strips of plastic which are placed on
five-foot centers. Melon plants can be purchased or started in peat pots or
pellets about 25 days before the anticipated planting time.
Since melon
plants are very sensitive to cold temperatures, they should not be set out
until all danger of frost has passed. Muskmelons can also be direct-seeded
through holes cut in the plastic, but this can delay harvest.
Varieties
Many new cultivars are being released
by seed companies. Try several new cultivars in addition to these suggestions:
Sweet 'N' Early Earlisweet Ball 1776 Burpee Hybrid Gold Star Classic (for
northern Ohio plantings) Saticoy Hybrid Iroquois Harper Hybrid Ambrosia Pulsar
(Trial) Eastern Star (Trial) Note that no ranking is implied by the order in
which these cultivars are listed. Newer cultivars listed in the "Midwestern
Vegetable Variety Trial Report for 1991" worthy of trial are as follows: Rising
Star Superstar Starship Cordele Caravelle Where garden space is limited,
several "bush" type cultivars are available: Rising Sun Retor Anatol Honeybush
Insects and Diseases
Cucumber beetles (both
spotted and striped) are vectors or carriers of a potentially devastating
disease known as bacterial wilt. Protecting the plants with insecticides (or
row covers until flowering) is necessary, since there are no control measures
for bacterial wilt once the plants are infected. Other pests of muskmelons are
aphids, flea beetles, and melonworms. Several diseases can be troublesome when
raising muskmelons. These include powdery mildew, downy mildew, alternaria leaf
spot, anthracnose, and fusarium wilt.
Crop rotation, resistant
cultivars, and fungicides are important control measures. For assistance in
controlling muskmelon insects and diseases, consult your county Extension
office.
Pollination
Home gardeners sometimes ask
why the earliest blossoms on their muskmelon vines do not set fruit. The first
flowers developing on the vines are male or pollen-bearing flowers. Only the
female or pistillate flowers are capable of developing into fruit. Honey bees
are the most effective pollinators of muskmelon blossoms. Every effort should
be made to protect the bees during the flowering periods to ensure high-quality
melons.
Harvest
The slipping of the stem from the
melon with slight finger pressure is an excellent indicator of melon ripeness.
Those fruit that show a change of color from green or olive-grey to yellowish
brown should be considered ready to harvest. For best quality, walk the patch
daily.
The author gratefully acknowledges James D.
Utzinger, William M. Brooks, and E.C. Wittmeyer on whose original fact sheet
this is based
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